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The Toolkit

How much faster does a higher savings rate get you there?

Savings rate — not investment returns — is the dominant lever. Drag the slider below and watch why the relationship isn't a straight line.

Your numbers
$/yr
$/yr
$/yr
Your existing head start — this is what lets your actual result beat the textbook curve.
Your savings rate (of after-tax income)40%
Expected real return

Should describe your actual portfolio blend, not the stock market in general — a diversified portfolio typically runs lower than 100% equities.

Withdrawal rate

Defines your FI number. See "The 4% Rule" for the case behind these figures.

Coast FI horizon

Years until a traditional retirement age — the point by which growth alone needs to finish the job.

30 yrs
S
Years to FI
20 yrs
around 2046, at a 40% savings rate
FI number$1,384,615
Annual savings$36,000
Coast FI
5.2 yrs

After this point, growth alone gets you to full FI by year 30 even if you never save another dollar. Coast number: $241,076.

The nudge

Ten more points of savings rate (50%) gets you to FI in 15.5 years instead of 204.4 years sooner.

A starting estimate, not a plan — pre-tax, pre-fee, and assumes a constant real savings amount. See The Numbers section for sequence risk, healthcare, and drawdown mechanics.

The curve

Independent of your actual income — this is the general relationship between savings rate and time, at your selected return and withdrawal rate. Drag to explore.

Every rate on this chart is a share of after-tax income, not gross — 50% of take-home pay is a very different bar than 50% of what you earn before taxes. Notice how flat the curve gets past ~50% — and how steep it is below ~20%.

40%
At 40% of after-tax income
Full FI: 20.5 yrs
Coast FI: 5.8 yrs
Full FI (textbook)
Coast FI (textbook)
You (with your current head start)
Disclaimer

This tool is a model, not a financial plan. Every result depends on the assumptions you set — return expectations, withdrawal rate, and the horizon you choose — and real outcomes will differ, especially since it doesn't account for taxes, fees, irregular income, or lifestyle changes over time. Nothing here is financial, tax, or legal advice, and it isn't a substitute for one. Use it to build intuition about the shape of the tradeoff, not as the basis for a decision on its own. Before making significant financial decisions, consult a qualified financial planner, tax advisor, or other licensed professional who can account for your complete situation.